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. Question: I am having problems installing the bottom tension wire on my chain link fence. If I use a come-a-long to pull it tight, I can't get the end tight enough on the final hookup. What is the best way to stretch tension wire tight? Reply: Installing tension wire tight can be a real challenge even for some experienced installers.
Here are some tips that will help. Tension wire is commonly used to stiffen the top or bottom of a chain link fence and is installed to pass at the center of the top or bottom diamond of the chain link fabric. Contrary to the belief that it somehow is woven through the diamonds, the tension wire is fastened to end, corner, stretch or gate posts (called terminal posts), usually at the same posts that the chain link fabric is stretched to, and passes continuously past the line posts without any connections at the line posts. In the case of bottom wire, the wire should be placed on the same side as the chain link between the line posts and chain link fabric. The top wire is used in place of top rail and is installed, like top rail, through the loop caps on the line posts. Many types of wire are used for tension wire. The intended wire is usually a 7 ga.
Wire which comes in large coils (about 18'-24' in diameter) and is not perfectly straight. It has slight bends back and forth, called springs, that resist being pulled straight, which helps keep the wire tight after installation. Tension wire usually comes in 1000' coils. Many residential installations will require a lighter gauge, in which case, a straight wire is used without the 'springs'. We recommend a 12 1/2 ga.
Hi-tensile wire for this type of application. It is made to stretch, whereas most other types are difficult to keep tight and often times it will break, if over stretched. Unfortunately, most contractors do not use this type and it is difficult to find it smaller than 2000' coils (no we will not try to uncoil and measure out 115' for you - a $2.30 sale that takes half a day). You could purchase the whole coil (for about $40.00) and save the rest. You'll have a lifetime supply of utility wire for your household projects.
If this is a no-go proposition, purchase a heavier regular gauge in a manageable footage. First of all, use brace bands and bolts for the terminal post hookups. The method of wrapping the wire around the end posts is inferior and can make the installation a lot more difficult. The savings in fittings are not worth the money and the method is a no-go on most spec. Stretch the tension wire on the same side as the chain link is to be installed and install it before the chain link.
Make your first connection by making a small loop in the wire of about 1-1 1/2' or smaller so a 5/16' bolt will slide through it easily. Wrap the wire around itself tightly. The easiest way to do this with 7 ga. Wire is to hold the loop flat between large pliers very firmly. Use a helper, if available, because this may take two hands to hold it tightly.
You can also pass a large heavy duty screw driver, or the handle of your pliers through the loop hole. Give yourself plenty of tail wire to work with, with the intention of cutting off the excess after wrapping. Use the hole in the handle of a crescent wrench, by sliding the tail of the wire through the hole and using the wrench to bend the wire around itself. The wrench will ride flat against the wire and as you wind it around the wire you can wrap it very tightly and neatly. The wrench will give you leverage as it lies on the wire and the end passing through the hole is pulled around the straight part of the wire.
If you leave a lot of tail wire (about a foot), you can easily wrap it be hand, although not as tightly as the previous method, and cut off the excess. (Don't worry about losing the.0056 cents, it will cost you $5.00 in time fussing with the short ends). About 5-6 wraps meets most requirements. There is a way to spread your fence pliers with the loose end between them and force the end to wind tightly around itself, but unless you can picture that clearly in your mind, forget it because I don't have time to draw you a picture. Now make the hookup by bolting the loop onto a brace band about 2-3' from the bottom of the terminal. That method is easier than grunting down in the mud at the bottom of a post trying to wrap the wire, while your pants slide down revealing your butt crack to passing traffic. Not a pleasant site regardless of your physique.
Uncoil the wire carefully as you back up the fence line to the next hookup. Make sure you are on the chain link side of the posts as you do so. Many installers prefer to have one person hold the coil at one end of the stretch while the other person pulls out the wire to the opposite end.
Whichever method is used, do not let the coil unroll itself by simply laying it on the ground and pulling wire out, unless you want the worst tangle of wire you could possibly imagine. Always wrap a rope or wire around the coil before leaving it on its own. It can be like a snake, left unattended, that will self-tangle, causing the most religious to use unfavorable language.
On long stretches, use a come-a-long and wire gripper to pull the wire tight. Don't wrap the come-a-long too close to where the brace band belongs or you will be fighting for space. 6' higher than the ultimate resting place of the brace band should suffice. Use a wire or cable sling to hook the come-a-long to the terminal instead of wrapping the come-a-long around the post and hooking it to itself. Your come-a-long will last longer and you won't get those nasty splintered cable wires that always seem to find their way 1/2' or so up your fingernail. (It evens hurts to think about it doesn't it?) After tightening, pull the slack past the terminal post and cut the wire about a foot past the post.
Hold both ends of the wire before cutting. I saw the end spring back ten feet one time and knock a man's tooth out. It did not improve his appearance. Put the other brace band and bolt into the position where it belongs. Pull the wire hand tight as hard as you can past the post with one hand and place your thumb of the other hand to mark the position where the wire and bolt in the brace band intersect.
Now without losing that position bend the wire end sharply at your marking thumb so the wire makes a right angle bend. That is where the next loop has to be. You can choose to make the loop like previously with your nose out of the mud or push the end into the brace band and wrap it in its final position. On top wire I choose the later and on bottom rail, I prefer to pre-loop. Be careful not to shorten the length, if you pre-loop, but if you do, you can always crank the come-a-long a little tighter until the loop will reach the brace band. Slide the brace band bolt through the loop and tighten the bolt. If the stretch is too short, say 10' or less, do not use a come-a-long at all.
Simply hand pull it tight, make your 90 degree wire bend as described before and pre-loop the wire just a hair short. If you make the second loop a little larger, about a 2' loop, you can form the loop rounder or more oblique to reach the brace band when bolting it. If you fail to get it as tight as you would have liked, don't panic. Simply take a pair of pliers and place the jaws around the wire stretch at a 90 degree angle and with the handles spread apart twist the pliers, forcing a crimp in the wire, which will tighten it. Repeat this crimping method every 6 inches or so along the length of the stretch until the wire is tight. Most installers over tighten the stretches with a come-a-long.
Do not crank the come-a-long until it will crank no more. That is too tight assuming you are using a 1000 lb. If you are using the 2 ton variety with the pulley on the cable, lose the pulley.
That makes it a 1 ton come-a-long. That is enough for any fence or wire stretching. Another tip: Temporarily tie the bottom tension wire to every fifth line post or so by lifting it a couple of feet above the ground. This will get the wire out of your way for stretching the chain link and avoid the chain link bottom getting tangled in the tension wire. After stretching the bottom tension wire release the temporary ties and hog ring the tension wire half way up on the bottom chain link diamond. Place hog rings a maximum of 2' apart or as needed securing the wire to the chain link mesh.
Ideally place alternate the hog rings in such a way that one is 'squeezed' to the bottom of the diamond and the next to the top wire in the diamond. The wires I speak of are the top and bottom bottom diamond wires that intersect on the sides of that diamond. This, in effect lifts the bottom wire, when attached to a top intersecting wire, and pulls down on a bottom intersecting wire. The wire should still be straight, but it will bind it so it doesn't fall completely to the bottom of the diamond, like it would if you connected it only to bottom intersecting wires. No tie wires are necessary to hold the tension wire to the line posts unless you are anal retentive. Someday I'll add some much needed illustrations here, but I just got six phone calls; two customers are wondering when they are going to get a fence they bought yesterday, one customer whose fence was installed 9 years ago wonders if her warranty is still good (I'm not real sure we did the job), a truck broke down, a Bobcat has a flat over on that junk yard job that I tried to get out of but couldn't and some gal from a Tennessee fence company just called who wants to know how a gate opening size is measured (hint 'opening size' - did she use our 800 number?). CAUTION: Wear safety glasses when handling wire - you will look kind of funny with a 1000' coil of wire hanging from your eyeball.
Also use bolt cutters for cutting 7 gauge wire instead of pliers to impress your co-workers with your powerful grip, or twenty years from now you won't be able to twist the cap off a pickle jar for your wife (gee.how do I know that?) MORE INFORMATION.
A chain-link privacy fence topped with protecting a utility power substation. In the United Kingdom, the firm of was established in to produce chain-link fencing by machine. The process was developed by Charles Barnard in 1844 based on cloth weaving machines (up until that time Norwich had a long history of cloth manufacture).
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The Anchor Post Fence Co., established in 1891, bought the rights to the wire-weaving machine and was the first company to manufacture chain-link fencing in the United States. Anchor Fence also holds the first United States patent for chain-link.
The machine was purchased from a man in 1845 from Belgium who originally invented the wire bending machine. Sizes and uses In the, fencing usually comes in 20 ft and 50 ft rolls, which can be joined by 'unscrewing' one of the end wires and then 'screwing' it back in so that it hooks both pieces. Common heights include 3 ft, 3 ft 6 in, 4 ft, 5 ft, 6 ft, 7 ft, 8 ft, 10 ft, and 12 ft, though almost any height is possible. Common mesh gauges are 9, 11, and 11.5. Mesh length can also vary based on need, with the standard mesh length being 2'.
For tennis courts and ball parks, the most popular height is 10 ft, and tennis courts use a mesh length of 1.75'. The popularity of chain-link fence is from its relatively low cost and that the open weave does not obscure sunlight from either side of the fence. One can make a chain-link fence semi-opaque by into the mesh.
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Installation The installation of chain-link fence involves setting posts into the ground and attaching the fence to them. The posts may be steel tubing, timber or concrete and may be driven into the ground or set in concrete. End, corner or gate posts, commonly referred to as 'terminal posts', must be set in concrete footing or otherwise anchored to prevent leaning under the tension of a stretched fence. Posts set between the terminal posts are called 'line posts' and are set at intervals not to exceed 10 feet. The installer attaches the fence at one end, stretches it, and attaches at the other, easily removing the excess by 'unscrewing' a wire.
Finally, the installer ties the fence to the line posts with aluminum wire. In many cases, the installer stretches a bottom tension wire, sometimes referred to as 'coil wire', between terminal posts to help minimize the in and out movement that occurs at the bottom of the chain-link mesh between posts.
Top horizontal rails are used on most chain-link fences, although not necessary. Bottom rails may be added in lieu of bottom tension wires, and for taller fences, 10 feet or more, intermediate horizontal rails are often added. Once stretched, a bottom wire should be secured to the line posts and the chain-link mesh 'hog ringed' to the tension wire 2' on center.
One generally installs this wire before installing the chain-link mesh. Manufacturing The manufacturing of chain-link fencing is called. A metal, often to reduce, is pulled along a rotating long and flat, thus creating a somewhat flattened. The spiral continues to rotate past the blade and winds its way through the previous spiral that is already part of the fence. When the spiral reaches the far end of the fence, the spiral is cut near the blade. Next, the spiral is pressed flat and the entire fence is moved up, ready for the next cycle. The end of every second spiral overlaps the end of every first spiral.
The machine clamps both ends and gives them a few twists. This makes the links permanent. An improved version of the weaving machine winds two wires around the blade at once, thus creating a.
One of the spirals is woven through the last spiral that is already part of the fence. This improvement allows the process to advance twice as fast. Notable uses. Chain-link fencing at an American short track. Used to notable effect in the by. Wrestling steel cage matches. used in baseball and softball fields.
Before the advent of in the later half of the 1980s, chain-link fencing was used as in racetracks to slow out-of-control cars down before they impact barriers. In the 2000s they continued to be used at American.
Install Tension Wire On Chain Link Fence
Many parks in were fitted with chain-link fencing during the when the original iron and steel railings were removed for the (though many are now being replaced). See also. Notes.
Come Along – Used combine with your stretch hook to stretch your chain link fabric tight to your posts. Tamp Bar – Used when you get into tough spots while digging your holes! Hand Diggers – Used to dig your post holes! Hack Saw – To cut pipe with (could use a Sazsaw instead) Drill with 9/16″ Socket and ½” Socket – To quickly tighten down all those nuts and bolts! Level – Needed to make sure all of your posts are level, don’t want your new fence to lean in and out!
Ohio professional engineer license renewal. Wheel Barrel and shovel – Useful to help clean up the dirt after your install!